TECHNICAL TIPS

DISCLAIMER:
Ice climbing is an inherently dangerous activity. Both subjective and objective dangers are a part of every climb. These technical tips cannot take the place of experience. Using these technical tips does not in any way guarantee your safety. Though great care was taken to insure that the information provided here is as accurate as possible, errors will undoubtedly be found, some that could potentially affect safety. A large part of safe climbing involves judgement skills. The technical tips provided here cannot take the place of experience. There are many avenues to learn safe climbing techniques, and quality instruction is highly recommended before venturing onto the ice. The author of these technical tips, as well as, the webmaster of this site can in no way be held responsible or liable for any accidents or injuries resulting from ice climbing.

HOW TO PLACE AN ICE SCREW:
For many years it has been taught and generally believed that the best way to place an ice screw was to place it angled uphill 45 - 60 degrees against the anticipated direction of a fall. In the last few years this theory has been rigorously tested and proven to be inaccurate. It has been proven that it is best to place an ice screw at a down hill angle of 10 - 20 degrees. It is actually the threads of the screw that create the real holding strength in the ice. In order to place an ice screw effectively a climber should follow these steps:

1. Choose a well thought out and balanced position from which to begin the process of placing the screw. This means trying to anticipate where you really need a screw. Placing screws will use up a great deal of your energy if you are trying to place them in the middle of a crux section.
2. Once you've decided to place a screw plant one of your axes firmly into the ice. Once you've decided which hand you will be using to place the screw, plant the tool that is in the opposite hand.
3. Once that tool is firmly seated in the ice you can use the other axe to clear away any soft or rotten ice. This allows you to get to the layers of solid, trustworthy ice. Allow it is important to note that you need to be aware of where your belayer is anchored so as to not bombard anyone down below with large chunks of ice. Now you would be prepared to placement your ice screw. 4. Start by creating a hole for the screw using the pick of your axe. It is extremely helpful to make this hole an elliptical shape, large enough to place the screw into. The reason for an egg-shaped hole is that it will enable you to torque the screw against the narrow sides of this shape allowing the threads to catch more quickly and easily.
5. Now that the starter hole has been created, firmly place the that axe into the ice relatively close to you, but not so it will be in your way placing the screw.
6. Carefully removing your hand from the leash grab the appropriate size screw from your harness or sling. You should keep your screws well organized so you're not left fishing around, trying to find the right one. Ideally whatever size screw you choose should be able to be penetrate the ice fully, so the hanger is flush to the surface of the ice.
7. In placing the screw torque it so the threads can grab the narrowest sides of the hole you have created. Again this will help you to place the screw quickly.
8. Once you have finished placing the screw (the hanger should be flush with the surface of the ice) take one of your quick draws and clip it to the hanger. Remember the gate of the carrageenan should end up down and away from the ice, to help prevent it from accidently opening up.
9. Now reach down grab the rope and clip it into the quick draw - it will feel really great once you have your rope securely into the quick draw! Remember do not to back clip the rope through the carrageenan, which could allow the rope to become un clipped during a fall.
10. Carefully get your hand back through the leash and you are ready to move on.