The following technical tips have been listed chronologically in the order they were submitted.
For many years it has been taught and generally believed that the best way to place an ice screw was to place it angled uphill 45 - 60 degrees against the anticipated direction of a fall. In the last few years this theory has been rigorously tested and proven to be inaccurate. It has been proven that it is best to place an ice screw at a down hill angle of 10 - 20 degrees. It is actually the threads of the screw that create the real holding strength in the ice. In order to place an ice screw effectively a climber should follow these steps:
1. Choose a well thought out and balanced position from which to begin the
process of placing the screw. This means trying to anticipate where you
really need a screw. Placing screws will use up a great deal of
your energy if you are trying to place them in the middle of a crux
section.
2. Once you've decided to place a screw plant one of
your axes firmly into the ice. Once you've decided which hand you
will be using to place the screw, plant the tool that is in the opposite hand.
3. Once that tool is firmly seated in the ice you can use the other axe to clear away any
soft or rotten ice. This allows you to get to the layers of solid,
trustworthy ice.
Allow it is important to note that you need to be aware of where your
belayer is anchored so as to not bombard anyone down below with large
chunks of ice. Now you would be prepared to placement your ice screw.
4. Start by creating a hole for the screw using the pick of your axe. It
is extremely helpful to make this hole an elliptical shape, large enough to
place the screw into. The reason for an egg-shaped hole
is that it will enable you to torque the screw against
the narrow sides of this shape allowing the threads to catch more
quickly and easily.
5. Now that the starter hole has been created, firmly place the
that axe
into the ice relatively close to you, but not so it will be in your way
placing the screw.
6. Carefully removing your hand from the leash grab the appropriate size
screw from your harness or sling. You should keep your screws well
organized so you're not left
fishing around, trying to find the right one.
Ideally whatever size screw you choose should be able to be penetrate the
ice fully, so the hanger is flush to the
surface of the ice.
7. In placing the screw torque it so the threads can grab the
narrowest sides of the hole you have created. Again this will help you to
place the screw quickly.
8. Once you have finished placing the screw (the hanger should be
flush with the surface of the ice) take one of your quick draws and clip it
to the hanger. Remember the gate of the carrageenan should end up down
and away from the ice, to help prevent it from accidently opening up.
9. Now reach down grab the rope and clip it into the quick draw - it will
feel really great once you have your rope securely into the quick draw!
Remember do not to back clip the rope through the carrageenan, which could
allow the rope to become un clipped during a fall.
10. Carefully get your hand back through the leash and you are ready to
move on.
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